One with the river in Little Blue Cat

We took turns on the oars of the Little Blue Cat, a boat about 1/3 scale, that packed a lot of fun and excitement. Like being in a kayak, the view from this small boat is different, the sensation that you are riding in, not on top of the water. In the heart of the wave train, no one but you to pick the route and steer the boat. No co-pilot to offer a second opinion. With each big wave you expect to get soaked, but that's okay. It was smoking hot and it felt good.

Just past Mile 25 we approached Hancock Rapid. We followed our leader, entering on the far right. We ran the rapid long and clean. Big rocks protruded in the middle. As we rested in an eddy the next boat rammed against a big boulder in the center. The bow of the boat slid over the rock and left it high centered. We thought he was stuck but he waved us off and pulled from his dry bag a camera which he used to take snapshots of the boat behind him. Guess he knew what he was doing.

Hot tub anyone?

Later we stopped at Hot Tub Springs. After beaching our boats we hiked a rocky path, following a warm, steamy creek to a spot high on a cliff where we crammed into a manmade tub. The water temp was like a hot bath. It felt good except for the sting it gave my sunburn. Been to hot springs before and expected a sulfur smell but found none here. One of the more popular spots on the river, we didn't have long to soak before the next group of rafters, a large outfitted group, stood waiting their turn.

Salmon Falls offered big thrills

Friday: our party put in about noon. We approached Salmon Falls, sided by its rock wall on the left and big boulders on the right. Sitting in the front of the blue Avon I had the best seat in the house. In our way were two giant rocks, just right of center. Our boat captain calmly read the current, lined us up with the rock on the right. Our pace quickened as the current pushed us down the falls into the slot from right to left. But instead of sliding to the left around the trouble our rubber raft slammed directly into the big round rock, spinning our boat sideways into a hole. He pulled mightily on the oars, backing our boat out of the hole, rotating clockwise. Now we were positioned backwards in the heart of the rapid. I freaked but my friend on the oars laughed as we ran the balance of the rapid facing upstream.

"That was fun," I screamed.

Before my friend could answer we crashed into the next big wave and both of us were soaked by the giant splash that came over the stern. We pulled into an eddy and watched the others run the rapid.

Who wants chocolate cake?

Thursday night: we stayed the night at Blackadar Camp, on the north side of the river at mile 17. Each day a different couple in our party was assigned kitchen duties. That meant cooking and cleaning for the 19 adults and teens in our party. Dinner was the start to our cycle. Propane fueled a pair of four burner stoves. We boiled a big pot of water, used a second vessel to heat chili that had been slow cooked at home then bagged, sealed and frozen. Our menu featured chili dogs, potato salad and home made chocolate cake. Big chests full of ice were stowed on each boat. Thanks to that, you could hardly call this roughing it.

We found abundant wildlife in Frank Church Wilderness

This deer in the orchard studied me carefully before going about her business. We saw deer several times along with bear, big horn sheep, hawks and eagles. Mostly we viewed the wildlife from our boat as we floated down river. But occasionally we came upon them as we camped or scouted the area. Snakes and spiders were my least favorite.

Lunchtime on the Salmon River

Rowing the boat and running rapids takes a lot of energy and concentration. So I found myself ready to rest and eat when our leader declared it was time for lunch. Wwe beached our five boats and set up a pair of small tables. We reached into the ice chests and filled our bellies with fresh fruit, chicken salad sandwiches and a few cans of Pringle chips. Some drank tea, others soda and the rest of us water so all were fully hydrated.

After lunch several of us hiked up a dirt road to an orchard planted many decades before by a mountain main who made applejack and sold it prospectors. We came upon the remnants of a cabin. Destroyed presumably by fire, all that remained was the foundation. Up ahead were other cabins, well preserved. I was drawn to them with curiosity. Through the window we could see furnishings that included a wood stove, sink and table. Electrical outlets led me to believe the tenants must have used a generator. Our walk through the orchard led us to four or five grouse: a hen and four chicks. They didn't seem to mind our presence. We marveled at the elaborate irrigation system the delivered water from the creek to the stand of apple trees. On the right I spotted a doe standing motionless. I froze in my tracks. The deer and I exchanged stares for a few minutes before she calmly walked away at a deliberate pace. Two other deer that had gone undetected followed her into the woods.

"There was nothing we could do but watch"

Thursday morning: we loaded the boats and soon were underway. It was pushing noon but I soon found that I was the only one concerned with the time. Everyone else knew from experience that part of the fun on the river is the leisurely pace. There are sections of the Main Salmon where you relax and let the current do the work. Then there are others where you better know what you are doing and how to run each rapid. The guidebook offers tips but experienced rafters know how to spot the rocks and holes and best ways to avoid them. About a quarter mile past Phantom Creek we approached Rainier Rapid, a Class II that offered the biggest waves of any rapid we had seen so far on our trip. Just right of center we faced a large rock and hole. My friend on the oars used a cross handed stroke to move our blue Avon left of the hole, then turned our boat straight to run the rest of the rapid perfectly. He put us in an eddy so we could watch the next boat. The yellow catamaran was in the heart of the rapid. My son was behind on the yellow ducky tied to the stern. As they crashed into the wave train the ducky flipped and my son was in the water. There was nothing we could do but watch. My wife reached into the water and grabbed him by the arm. "Let him go, you'll dislocate his shoulder," her sister yelled. "Here, do it like this," she said as she gripped the neck of his life jacket and plucked him onto the yellow cat. They ran the rest of the rapid without incident. Afterward we laughed about the rescue, thankful that no one had been hurt. The river is littered with a lot of rocks and hidden obstacles in the rapids. We were warned that it wouldn't take much to hit your head on a rock or have your feet lodged and drown.